Shadows in the Dust: A Journey to Gomtu
The road was bumpy and choked with dust, and the truck was old. My wife and I struggled to keep ourselves upright in our seats as we traveled to a nearby village past Gomtu town, hoping to meet a prospective babysitter. A local boy accompanying us remarked that on roads like these, traveling on wheels takes almost as much time as going on foot. It took us over an hour to arrive.
The driver dropped us off at the end of the dirt road directly across from the village, leaving us to continue on foot. As we stood discussing the remaining trek, a local man approached to ask what brought us there. We learned from him that most of the young women from the village worked at a dolomite mining company just a few yards from where we stood. It brought temporary relief—we wouldn't have to make the long climb up to the village, which turned out to be much farther than it appeared.
The girl we were looking for had prior experience, having previously worked for two different families in Thimphu. When we finally spotted her, she was carrying a stack of seven bricks balanced on her head at a construction site. The air was thick with dolomite dust, the southern sun beat down relentlessly, and I couldn't help but worry about the risk of injury surrounding her.
We waited for her to return for her next load. Her friend, with whom we had been speaking, told her that we had come to offer her a new opportunity.
Her response was an absolute, flat no.
She refused to explain, insisting instead on picking up another stack of bricks. Her friends urged her to at least listen and consider the offer, but she wouldn't budge. She was earning eighty Ngultrums a day; we offered her significantly more, detailing the perks, rest days, and advance payments. She simply told us that she had no desire to work for anyone ever again—and particularly not anyone from Thimphu.
We ran out of persuasive words and better offers to change her mind. She refused to listen, repeating only that she would never return to Thimphu. Realizing it was useless, we decided to turn back.
The Unspoken Truth
In a nearby camp, we spoke with some of the local women who knew her story.
They told us that she had previously gone to Thimphu to work for a prominent family, staying for nine months. There, she was chronically sleep-deprived—forced to stay up late and rise early. She cleaned the house, cooked for the family, managed catering for archery matches and social gatherings, and washed clothes. Worse still, she was physically and verbally abused, and at times forced to eat food intended for the family's pet dogs—or so they were told. She eventually fled the house.
After spending a few months back home, she was sent out to work again out of economic necessity. Her father was a troubled burden to the family, and her mother was too ill to work. This time, there were grand promises: better pay and lighter duties. She was persuaded to give it a second chance.
That stay lasted less than four months. She was falsely accused of stealing, subjected to every form of abuse, denied phone calls to her brother, and withheld her pay. Once again, she ran away—vowing never to return.
Hearing what she had endured, we completely abandoned any thought of changing her mind. The local boy who brought us kept insisting that he would continue to persuade her on our behalf, but we firmly told him to leave her alone.
A Lingering Shadow
On our way back, we pondered her story. While part of us questioned whether such cruelty could be real—hoping it contained some degree of exaggeration—we couldn't dismiss it entirely.
The haunting possibility that it was all true weighed heavily on us. The thought of such spiteful, inhumane treatment hung in the air, floating among the dolomite dust all the way back home.